Reviews | Asus P5N-E SLI (Page 11 of 11) – APH Networks

A big factor is the yellow RAM slots. They cause so much trouble, I don’t even want to get into the details. Stick with the black RAM slots, and life is much, much better. In fact, the majority of odd problems went away and stability was greatly improved afterwards!

This may be the reason I’m having some issues with my new PC. Presently, the RAM’s sitting in the yellow RAM slots. I’ll make a switch tonight and see what happens. I went through some serious hell getting a Zalman ZM-NBF47 on the SouthBridge. As it is, it’s slightly askew, but it should still do a better job than no heatsink at all. After some more research this morning, it appears it’s the NorthBridge chip that gets very hot – even with the large heatsink on it. Since I have liquid cooling for my CPU, there isn’t much airflow from the CPU fan blowing over the passive heatsink, so even in idle mode, the NorthBridge chip hits 55C. What I’m going to try to do this week is to mount a 120 mm fan on the VGA wind tunnel in the CoolerMaster Cosmos and have it blow air directly over the motherboard. I’ll try a Antec 120 mm set at low speed first to see how that works. The other thing I could try is to replace the very low speed fans in the CoolerMaster with higher speed fans. In the future, when I have build made for a computer, I’ll have to better review the individual parts – especially the motherboard, since it’s the toughest item to replace on a system. In retrospect, I should have taken a look at the EVGA nForce 680i which has fan for the NorthBridge and a better overall layout.

Over the past two weeks, I’ve replaced the videocards in my home, work and HTPC computers with fanless silent videocards:

ASUS N EN7300GT SILENT/HTD/256M for my work computer. I was originally going to put this item in my Sony home computer, but because the heatsink on this card protrudes one centimeter plus off the back of the card, it would interfere with the power supply on that computer which has a very tight case. I used it at work instead to replace my 6800 GS, and between replacing the rear fan with a Scythe 120 mm and turning the Antec fan up front to its low setting, I have a quiet PC at work which is very pleasant to use.

MSI NX8500GT-MTD256EH for my HTPC computer. This replaced a 6800GS, and the installation went smoothly. I originally purchased this card for its HDMI output, but I couldn’t figure out the interior cabling for the audio, so I just went with the component output. I think this was the way to go since I also use PowerDVD on the PVR, and I remember VGA output gives DRM errors which would probably also occur with the HDMI output. I like this card since it’s a lot smaller than the 6800GS, doesn’t need additional power, and is silent. I do notice that when I minimize Beyond TV or switch to PowerDVD, I get snow and a weird color in between changes.

MSI NX8500GT-TD256EH RT for my Sony computer. This replaced a 7800GT which produced a lot of noise. Since I now have a new gaming computer, I decided to add a silent card, and this card has a great price, yet still enables me to game at lower settings if I ever get the urge.

I notice these silent cards run in the mid-50s Centigrade, but they seem to work fine without any problem. I’ve seen that other people are seeing temperatures up into the 70s with these cards, so I guess mine aren’t that bad.

I installed a Scythe 120 mm S-FLEX SFF21E in my work computer and my new Cosmos 1000 case, and I’m impressed by it’s lack of noise and the amount of air it pushes. They have a very hushed sound, and I’m buying another one for my Antec P150 case which is a component of my HTPC. I’ve been using Antec 3-speed fans, and I’ve noticed over time that they start making a vibrating or cricket wowing noise over time which is especially prevalent at their low speed setting. Because of my positive experience with Scythe, I’ve decided to purchase two of their 80 mm fans for the front of the Antec P150 which has two Antec 80 mm fans presently making the cricket like noise. The 80 mm fans have ball bearings instead of the S-FDB (Fluid Dynamic Bearing by SONY Corporation) found in the 120s, but the reviews at Newegg sounded pretty good.

Fine-tuning SpamAssassin LG #105

Whitelisting is usually done with the settings whitelist_from and whitelist_to. These can be repeated as many times as you like. Simple globbing patterns (see “man bash” and search for “Pattern Matching” for a description) are used to specify wildcard matches. E.g., ‘?’ matches a single character and ‘*’ matches any number of characters (including zero.) whitelist_from and whitelist_to subtract 100 points from the score, making it very rare for matching emails to reach the spam threshold.whitelist_from nice.but_clueless@example.net
whitelist_from *@importantclient.example.com

Also available are options more_spam_to, all_spam_to. According to the documentation, “There are three levels of To-whitelisting, whitelist_to, more_spam_to and all_spam_to. Users in the first level may still get some spammish mails blocked, but users inall_spam_to should never get mail blocked.”

Whitelist_from was giving -100.0, but whitelist_to was giving -6.0 with Spamassassin 3.2.3, but when I used all_spam_to, I saw the -100.0 score. I applied this to a client who gets mail that is caught too often, so I’ll let them deal with the spam on the client end.